Baolis or stepwells were built to collect rainwater during the monsoons
and allow people to access the receding water through the year. They are
examples of the many types of storage and irrigation tanks that were developed,
mainly to cope with seasonal fluctuations in water availability.
The majority of surviving stepwells originally also served a leisure
purpose because the base of the well provided relief from daytime heat.
Stepwells also served as a place for social gatherings and religious
ceremonies. Usually, women were more associated with these wells because they
were the ones who collected the water and it was they who prayed and offered
gifts to the goddess of the well for her blessings. This led to the building of
some significant ornamental and architectural features often associated with
dwellings, it also ensured their survival as monuments.
Stepwells usually consist of two parts: a vertical shaft from which
water is drawn and the surrounding inclined subterranean passageways, chambers
and steps which provide access to the well. The galleries and chambers
surrounding these wells were often carved profusely with elaborate detail and
became cool, quiet retreats during the hot summers.
There are any number of baolis in the capital which are now lying
abandoned and the credit for building them goes to the emperors and the kings
of yesteryears who took pains to ensure that the people did not go thirsty on
account of the scorching heat that prevailed then and also prevails today. In
fact Delhi is the land of baolis both big and small and scattered over various
parts of the city built by different rulers. As of today, most of them are
lying unused or even for that matter, misused. While they were the main source
of drinking water in the olden times, they are now lying unused because of the
preference for water tanks. Most of the baolis were built by Muslim invaders to
solve the water crisis in the city.
Historians say that while there were over a hundred baolis in Delhi
towards the start of the 20th century, today only about 10-15 have survived
urbanization. Many baolis were lost or filled in completely due to large scale
construction. Apart from the bigger baolis like Ugrasen ki baoli or Rajon ki
baoli, etc., there were many small baolis from the Tughlaq, Lodi and Mughal
times. These were used extensively as a source of water for the locals.
ANANGTAL BAOLI
Anangtal Baoli- the oldest existing Baoli in Delhi, the Anangtal Baoli
located in Mehrauli which was also known as Yoginipura, was built in the 10th
century by the Rajput King Anang Pal II of Tomar Dynasty. Anang Tal literally
means reservoir provided by Anang Pal of the House of Tomar.
GANDAK KI BAOLI
Gandhak ki Baoli / Photo: Karan Thapa
Gandak ki Baoli- The Gandhak ki Baoli, near Qutab Minar, was
built by Iltutmish for Bakhtiar Kaki
(a Sufi mystic responsible for establishing the Sufi order in Delhi) in 13th century. The baoli is in five
tiers, each tier narrowing as it descends towards the bottom. The Gandhak ki
Baoli got its name from the smelly sulphur springs that fed the well. Because
of its sulphur-rich water, said to have healing
properties for skin ailments, this baoli
was used as a spa and to provide a continuous flow of water to the 2nd
city of Delhi, Mehrauli. The baoli is called the diving well since men dive in
it for the amusement of visitors. Being a part of the Qutab Minar complex, it
has been declared “World Heritage Site”.
HAUZ KHAS BAOLI
Hauz Khas Baoli- The Hauz-i-Alai Tank,originally built by Sultan Alaudin Khilji in the 13th – 14th centuries
B.C., went dry soon after his death in 1316. It was
rebuilt by Feroz Shah Tughlaq 50 years later. It was used to supply water to the city of Siri which has the tomb of Firoz
Shah Tughlaq, a mosque and a madrasa (college for Islamic studies) on its
eastern and southern sides.
AGRASEN KI BAOLI
Agrasen ki Baoli (Source: http://simondetreywhite.com/wordpress)
Agrasen ki Baoli - It is
not certain who built this step-well, Agrasen ki Baoli, though some credit a
king called Agrasen. The Agrasen ki Baoli, named after Raja Agrasen of the
Mahabharata, is believed to have been built during the 10th century
BC. But historians feel the Baoli was built in the 14th century AD by the Agarwal community, during the Tughlaq period. Close to the heart of
Connaught place in Central Delhi the 104-step Baoli used to be the epicentre of cultural life in Delhi in
14th century. Spanning 60 metres in length and 15 metres in
width and flanked on both sides by niches, chambers and passageways, the baoli
has three landings. Amazingly the Baoli have 2 tanks, one in the front of
bathing purposes and one hidden behind for storing drinking water. Centuries
ago this was a reservoir as well as a summer refuge for heart stricken
citizens, living in pre lodhi times. The well was surrounded by cool corridors
where the locals lounged on hot summer afternoons. As the water level plunged the
people would seek a cooler retreat in the baoli's lower reaches. Till 2002
there was water but now all the water has evaporated.
HAZRAT NIZAMUDDIN KI BAOLI
Nizamudin Baoli (Source: www.thedelhiwalla.com)
Hazrat Nizamuddin ki Baoli- The baoli in Nizamussin Basti was built by
the sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin
more than 700 years ago (14th
century). This is the only Baoli in Delhi that still has water as it has an
active underground spring. It measures 123 ft by 53 ft internally and is
enclosed by a wall on the South-East and West. The construction of this
step-well began at the same time as Ghiyas-ud-din
Tughlaq began building his massive Tughlaqabad fort. The emperor wanted all
the masons in the land to work on his fort alone. They could not undertake any
other project. However, Nizamuddin was keen on having the Baoli built at the
same time. So the masons worked on the fort during the day and on the Baoli by
night. In a fit of pique, the emperor cut off the supply of oil to Ghiyaspur
(present day Nizamuddin) so that there would be no light to work on the Baoli
at night. The story goes that Nizamuddin lit the lamps with water and cursed
the emperor, saying that his fort would remain deserted on completion. Its
walls are made of huge blocks of Delhi quartzite, the city’s only local
stone, which is also seen in the Tughlaqabad fort. Over the decades, the water
of Hazrat Nizamuddin’s baoli became toxic with decomposed muck. In 2009, a
renovation project undertaken by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and ASI managed
to reach the well’s foundation. Today, the water looks clean.
TUGHLAQUABAD BAOLIS
Tughalaqabad Baoli
Tughlaquabad Baolis- Archaeologists say that there are more than 5
baolis at Tughlaqabad (built in 1321). Most of them are rectangular or
square-shaped and most striking features are the dog legged stairs. They have
dried up.
There is another baoli
near Hindu Rao Hospital, built in 1354 AD by Feroz Shah Tughlaq, for water supply
to his hunting lodge.
RED FORT BAOLI
Red Fort Baoli
(Courtesy: Sahil Ahuja)
Lal Qila Baoli- The Red Fort’s baoli is 14th century,
significantly pre-dating the fort itself which is 17th century. The baoli is
built of Delhi Quartzite stone. It has an unusual design that features an
octagonal well-shaft, two-stories and two sets of steps leading down, one from
the north and one from the west. The staircases are lined with chambers on both
sides. A passageway leads to the deep, dark reservoir adjacent to the tank. It
is belived that the baoli dates back to Tughlaq-era. Some historians concede that it might have
also been used by the inhabitants of Salimgarh Fort that pre-dates the Red Fort
and was integrated with the Red Fort itself as a garrison by Shahjahan. Shahjahan extensively
renovated the baoli to suit his fine tastes. The British when they occupied the
fort converted the chambers into jail rooms for members of Netaji Subhas
Chandra Bose's Indian National Army. Even Dara Shikoh was imprisoned in the
remote part of the Red Fort before his assassination on the order of his
brother, Aurangzeb. After the British left, the baoli came under the control of
Indian Army, then the CRPF and now ASI. It was allowed to be reclaimed by
vegetation and weeds and put to use as a dump yard. Being a part of Red Fort,
it’s a “World Heritage Site”.
FIROZ SHAH KOTLA BAOLI
Firoz Shah Kotla
baoli
Firoz Shah Kotla baoli - Firoz Shah Kotla baoli was built as a part of
the fortress by Feroz Shah Tughlaq. This
Baoli served as a summer retreat for
the Royalties where they spent time cooling off and bathing in the water of
this well. The circular baoli with a
triangular base lies towards the north western side of the Ashokan Pillar and
in the heart of a large garden constructed in the form of subterranean
apartments and a large underground canal built on its eastern side through
which the water runs into the well. Unlike more common baolis this does not have steps leading all the way
to the water level, instead a complex pulley system with pipes and channels are
there. The circular structure with rooms has often been referred to as a summer
retreat for the nobility. Nowadays it teams with large fish and is used water the
gardens of the complex.
PURANA QUILA (OLD FORT) BAOLI
Purana Qila Baoli
Puran Qila baoli- The construction
work of Purana Qila started in 1533 , under the reign of Humayun but it was completed after 5 years. But his reign here was
short lived. In 1540 Sher Shah the Afghan-origin chieftain from eastern India
ended Humayun’s reign and ousted him. Sher Shah reigned here for 5 years until his
death in 1545. But during his reign he also built many important monuments
here. Humayun regained the fort in 1555 after 15 year of being ousted but he
died a tragic death shortly in 1556. The baoli was a part of the fort.
Ascending down to 22 metres this well was an important source of water. It could have been the only source. Since the fort
stood on an elevation, the well had to be dug deeper. The way in which they
managed to create the 89 steps well with proper covering is a great achievement
even by today’s standard. It is believed to be the site of mythological town of
Indraprastha.
ARAB-KI-SARAI'S BAOLI
Arab-ki-Sarai's baoli –Humayun died in 1556, and his widow Hamida
Banu Begam, also known as Haji Begam,
commenced the construction of his tomb in 1569, fourteen years after his death.
Mirak Mirza Ghiyath, a Persian, was the architect employed by Haji Begam for
this tomb. The tomb proper stands in the centre of a square garden, divided
into four main parterres by causeways (charbagh), in the centre of which ran
shallow water-channels. A baradari (pavilion) occupies the centre of the
eastern wall and a hammam (bath chamber) in the centre of northern wall. Arab-ki-sarai
baoli is among the several smaller monuments surrounding Humayun's Tomb. This L-shaped baoli was built to quench the
thirst of the over 300 Persian artisans who stayed in while constructing Arab-ki-sarai.
Being a part of the Humayun’s tomb complex, it has been declared “World
Heritage Site”.
BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MAHAL BAOLI
Bahadur Shah Zafar mahal baoli- The baoli near the mahal of Bahadur Shah
Zafar is built in imitation of the wells at Gandak-ki-Baoli and Rajon-ki-Bain.
It contains about 74 steps and was built in three stages during the reign of Aurangzeb.
RAJON KI BAOLI
Rajon Ki Baoli (Source:www.1100walks.com)
Rajon ki Baoli –Of all the Baolis, it was the most
ornamental. Located in Mehrauli, it was Built by Daulat Khan, during the reign of Sikander Lodhi in 1516 (16th
century). ‘Rajon’ refers not to the kings but to the masons, who used it. The
entire structure is subterranean, so as one approaches the entrance, one can
only see the top-most storey. And each level of the baoli slowly reveals itself
to the visitor as one walks towards its steps. The baoli-complex has a
12-pillared tomb and a mosque with some pretty plaster decoration on it. It has
3 levels, with 66 steps and the baoli’s top floor has a row of arched niches,
which are cool inside.
QUTUB SAHIB KI BAOLI
Qutub Sahib ki baoli
(Source: www.behtardilliblog.wordpress.com)
Qutub Sahib ki baoli is located at Mehrauli inside the Dargah of
Qutub ul Aqtab Hazrat Khwaja Syed Muhammad Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki, a Sufi
saint and the spiritual successor of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti. Even though the
origins of this deep spring of water is not known, but the structures around it
were erected in 1846 by Bahadur Shah Zafar’s loyals. Currently
the baoli, is covered on all sides and is hardly visible. Though referred to as
sacred by the visitors of the dargah, but still used as a dump bin.
OTHER BAOLIS
Khari baoli- Khari baoli gets its name Khari or Khara, meaning salty. It
was a saline water stepwell used for
animals and for bathing. It was constructed along with a fortified gateway
on its western end popularly known as Lahori Gate, during the Mughal era. However, today there is no
trace of either the well or the gateway, which now lie buried under the main
road of Asia’s largest spice market. The market came up around the Fatehpuri Masjid, which was built in 1650
by Fatehpuri Begum, one of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan's wives.
Shamilat Deb Baoli - is also mentioned by Maulvi Zafar Hasan in
the old Sultanpur area of Mehrauli. Even during the early years of the 20th
Century it was not in use, being filled up with mud and only eight steps
visible.
Manwari Begum-ka-Burj, a baoli was built during the reign of Feroz
Tughlak. The tablet attached to it was so badly obliterated that Maulvi Zafar
Hasan could not make any sense out of it but even so recommended the
preservation of the baoli.
R.K.Puram Baoli- The 15th Century baoli built by
Lodis, on the ridge forest to help the travelers who visited the tomb and
villagers of Munirka, now situated at R K Puram Sector 5.
Dwarka Baoli- Recently discovered, the baoli dates back to the Lodi era, with typical Lodi
architecture and prominent arches near the steps. The baoli does not figure in
INTACH's 2001 listing of heritage buildings in the city, but is included
prominently in Zafar Hasan's list which was brought out in the 1910s. The Zafar
Hasan listing mentions the existence of the baoli in village Loharehri and
highlights that the monument is a one-of-its-kind structure as there is no
evidence of any other structure in the area. The 1910 listing states that it is
not very deep and should have about 22 steps.
CONCLUSION
With the advent of modern techniques of irrigation and water
supply, the time-tested baolis have become neglected and in the process an
important architectural and technological heritage is being lost.
For most of the remaining baolis,
though the structures still exist, the water inside is polluted or has
evaporated. The baolis no longer serves the purpose for which they were built. These
artificial reservoirs, created to store and harvest ground water are no longer
in use and the beds have dried up as the water table has gone down further.
Some baolis are beyond recovery, such as Agrasen ki Baoli. The high-rises are
the reason why baolis cannot be restored to their original self. Multi-floor
buildings claim more water and so the level of Delhi’s water table has plunged.
Baolis cant be refilled with water.
The town planners today may have to revert to the heritage sites and recharge these man-made reservoirs of
precious water.
Sources
Mehrauli: Pani ki Kahani -Habitat Library & Resource
Centre (HLRC)- by Mukesh Khosla
www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com
www.delhiheritagewalks.com
www.travel-and-tourism.ws
www.thedelhiwalla.com
www.behtardilliblog.wordpress.com
www.wikipedia.org
www.1100walks.com
